Varanasty

I had a premonition that Justin and I might find Varanasi, one of India's holiest and most intense cities, a bit tough to take after the relaxation of Rishikesh. It was my fear that we would decide that we had planned our travel leg in India, pre-Ashram perfectly except in our decision to visit Varanasi last before entering the Ashram for our month of intense yoga/detox. And surprise surprise I was right! It's not to stay that we didn't enjoy Varanasi. Who doesn't enjoy a place that smells so rank it makes you want to vomit? Or when your sun rise boat cruise comes complete with boast side attractions like dead bodies, which you wouldn't have even recognized because of how gray and puffy they look had it not been for your gondolier casually pointing them out. "Thanks Ji!"

We arrived amidst the relative calm of Holi, the festival celebrating the arrival of spring throughout India. Holi is a very colourful holiday, literally. Everyone throws coloured powder all over one another and particularly love hitting clean unsuspecting tourists when they aren't expecting it. I got my Holi colour at a train station stop on our way to Varanasi. There were very few travelers on the trains and therefore even fewer wallahs hocking chai and snacks. Justin and I were getting quite hungry so when ever we pulled into a station I would open the door to see if there was anyone selling anything to eat or drink on the platform. At one such stop I opened the door on a scene of local boys happily flinging pink powder on one another. They took one look at me, spotless all in white, and came running over. But luckily they were very subdued in their decorating and only put handfuls of powder on my forehead and cheeks. I have heard stories of women travelers who were nearly molested in the name of Holi merriment. I was actually a little disappointing. Why isn't anyone trying to molest me? (I kid I kid.) Anyway I digress, because of the holiday many of the shops were closed and people were at home instead of in the markets, so we got a seldom seen quiet tour of Varanasi as we searched for a hotel.

We also picked up an Australian couple, who we later had to ditch. Hate when that happens. The four of us shared a rickshaw around town as we searched for a suitable guest house for the week. After looking at a few places, including several recommended by our austere driver- much to our dismay, we attempted to have him drop us off near an area of the ghats where we could find something on our own. But instead he dropped us off at the other end of the river, perhaps out of spite but perhaps not, and we had to walk along the ghats with all of our bags for nearly 5kms. By the way Varanasi is blazing hot. Thankfully, because of Holi, it was also relatively quiet along the ghats although we didn't know it until later. We did eventually find the Hotel we were looking for, Hotel Alka.

Alka unfortunately didn't have any rooms with en-suite bathrooms but we were all so drained from the trip and the hike that we decided to stay at least one night. It was our hope that something else would become available there, and if not then we could look for something else the next day when we were more rested. Bill and Nancy, (names changes) our Australian "friends" thankfully ended up leaving for a different hotel and we didn't have to see them again. We did end up staying at Alka but due to a misunderstanding with the hotel manager we ended up in the non-bathroom room for two nights. We spent the rest of the week in a nice room on the third floor. We only had two qualms in the new room . One being how hot it was especially in the evening, and the other, which was a bigger problem for Justin than it was for me because I never heard it, was the couple having loud sex in the room next to us. But Justin did give me very graphic play by play so I was not very appreciative either. Bu hey at least someone enjoyed Varanasi. Although from what Justin heard I am not sure that it was enjoyable for both parties involved.

Anyjackrabbitsex, We did a lot of the usual tourist things in Varanasi, like taking a sunrise boat cruise along the Ganges to watch the local fisherman. The cruise was a little light on fisherman. In fact it was more like a tourist safari. There was a lot of, " O look at those funny Japanese people in SARS masks. " Or, " check out those two, they are very Connecticut." We also did a boat cruise one night to watch the dusk ceremony performed at the main ghat by local Brahman princes. At least that time the water was crowded with Indian tourists and not just a whole bunch of us whities. Justin and I hate being surrounded by whites. Because we are true to our race, totally hypocritical.

There were also a lot of touristy things we missed. We didn't go to the Golden Temple. A.) Because it is constantly under terrorist threats, and B.) because foreigners aren't actually allowed inside. So it seemed like a lot of hoopla for not a lot of action. We did walk by it a number of times and that was enough for me. The shouting and menacing police constantly staked out front patting people down and yelling was plenty of Golden Temple for me. Besides I am very of the mind that once you have seen one temple you've seen 'em all. We also didn't make it to the Fort. We had every intention of going but then the day we planned to go Justin and I both came down with another round of travelers diarrhea. Bet you were missing those stories eh?! So instead of the touristy fort Justin and I took a much less touristy tour of inner-city Varanasi to the hospital.

That actually turned out to be one of our favourite memories in Varanasi. We took a peddle rickshaw being powered by a man who was at least 70 years old. The ride was about 10 kilometers, for which we paid 100Rs or $2.25. I also gave our peddler a generous 10Rs tip. Which I know was appreciated because he dropped us off at the main entrance instead of at the back where he had intended to leave us, before he saw the extra 10Rs. At one point on the trip we had to hide our heads in shame as he peddled us over a hilly bridge. He was great and refused when we offered to get down and walk. I think he was actually a bit offended at the suggestion.

The hospital too was quite an experience. They always are here. In fact I think I could write a very funny travelers guide to the hospitals in India. With regards to the Heritage Hospital of Varanasi it would say -this bustling, no nonsense hospital is a good choice in Varanasi. What they lack in bed side manner they make up for in efficiency. Be advise this is definitely a mid-range hospital, compared with other parts of India. Justin was very quick on the draw when they told us that it would cost us more than 1,200 Rs to both see the doctor. An astronomical fee. He told them that only he needed an appointment, (since we both had the exact same symptoms anyway.) And then when we went in for Justin's appointment I just came along as the concerned wife. (We've stopped trying to fight it, everyone here thinks we're married so we just smile and nod.) The doctor did figure out our little scam but he didn't seem to mind and generously agreed to double Justin's prescription for ATBs -that's antibiotics in case you weren't up on the lingo. So score one for us.

As far as our other activities in Varanasi it was more of the same. A lot of wandering around, usually slightly lost. A lot of eating, our favourite pastime in India. We also took a few yoga classes while we were in town. But after Amit we just couldn't totally get it up for our teacher in Varanasi. I don't know if anyone will ever be as good as Amit. He has spoiled yoga for us forever. We even spent a few days at another more luxurious hotel, Hotel Surya, having massages and facials. On our last day in town we went back to Surya to try and sneak in and use the pool. We had almost managed to get away with it except I was an idiot and stopped at reception on our way out to inquire about grocery stores in town. While I stalled the pool manager called over to the front desk and asked them what our room number was. The jig was up. We ended up having to pay 200Rs to use the pool. Oh well. I think we were more disappointing that we got caught than we were at having to pay. We had been doing such a good job deflecting their questions about room number etc poolside.

Oh yea and we went to see another movie while in town. My Name is Khan starring Shah Rukh Khan. If you don't know who that is you can google him. I guarantee you will recognize him if you do. Anyway most of the movie was in Hindi but surprisingly that didn't inhibit us much from following the storyline. The movie is about an autistic genius (Khan) who moves to San Francisco after the death of his mother and falls in love with a Hindi girl, (he's Muslim.) They marry but after September 11th their relationship is put to the test and he eventually is forced to strike out in search of the US President in order to win her back. He is trying to find the President to explain that he is not a terrorist, you'll have to see the movie to really get it. And besides a few scenes which take place in Wilhelmina, Georgia and grossly stereotype black America and hurricane Katrina we found the film quite enjoyable. We even got some of the jokes. Bollywood films have enough English in them that you can usually follow them pretty easily. And this one was particularly simple in structure, and most of the movie took place in the US, so there was lots of background English.

Monday we caught the train which brought us to Nasik. It was a twenty four hour trip and when we got in we were so happy to have finally arrived at the Ashram and be able to settle down somewhere for a few weeks. Our therapy training starts tomorrow so this is probably my last post for a little while. We do get one day off a week, but I am not sure when that will be. The ashram is very isolated, you know because you are supposed to be getting away from addictions like caffeine and Internet. (I don't know how I will survive. Oh yea the iPhone. Actually I am going to really try and not use my phone) So anyway, yea, we are going to be very busy for a few weeks, and I am not sure that I will want to spend my days off at an Internet cafe but you never know.

Highlights of Varanasi
watching most of the Oscars at 6am. We had to leave before they were over.
Boat ride to watch the ceremony at dusk at the main ghat
walking through the galis - that's alleys for all of you
lotus lounge - where we ate most of our meals. Could have been where we got sick but we'd rather not believe that
Hotel Surya - except for the tipping scandal I uncovered. (The beauty parlour asks you not to tip the masseurs directly. I thought it was curious and I found out that it is because the manager actually keeps the tips for himself. Outrageous.) I snuck everyone a tip anyway. Teehee.
Finally getting to watch the adorable video Natalie sent us from Canada. Thanks Nat!

Lowlights
missing Sandy acceptance speech
getting ill again!
dead bodies, cow shit, garbage, etc