Pushkar, wait isn't there supposed to be a lake?

Justin and I met Lucy in Udaipur at Raju's and we spent quite a bit of time with her while we were in town. And we enjoyed her company so much that we asked her to come with us for a few days, including Justin's birthday, to Pushkar. Pushkar is a holy city here in India, (aren't they all,) which really just means there is no meat or booze. However you can get hash or hash milkshakes anywhere and at all hours. Explain that one to me please? However, unlike other holy cities that we have been to Pushkar is holy for a good reason. (read, I actually know why it is holy unlike most places where I don't have a clue.) And that is because Pushkar is home to the only Brahma Temple in India.

Brahma is the first and most important Hindu God. He is the God of Creation. Now you may be wondering why the first and most important God only has one Temple in a country that has a Temple on practically every corner, and there is a logical explanation. Brahma despite being the first God is irrelevant. Having created the world millions of years ago he is now retired. Basically he did his part and now it is up to Vishnu, Shiva and all the rest to keep the ball rolling. So, since he is no longer working he doesn't require the same amount of active devotion. Hence he doesn't need a bunch of Temples. But there is a Brahma Temple in Pushkar, and that is why it is so holy.

Now, why Brahma's Temple is in Pushkar is an interesting Hindu story. You see, when Brahma was hanging out creating the World he had to slay this demon using his weapon the lotus flower and when he did several of the petals fell and created 3 lakes, the youngest of which was Pushkar Lake. Pushkar Lake is actually a man made lake, a bit strange I know since Brahma would have been around a few years before humans, but perhaps that is why it is known as the youngest Lake. Anyway, Brahma came down to Pushkar Lake to perform a yagna with his wife Savitri and make the place super holy and shit. However, things went a bit tits up when she was late, (women.) So Brahma is waiting and waiting and finally he gets tired of waiting and marries someone else, a milkmaid named Gayatri - homewrecker. Well that was a big mistake. Savitri eventually did show up and when she finds out Brahma has gone and married some other chick, and performed a holy yagna with his new wife by his side she is pissed. And since she is the first wife of the God of Creation she's pretty powerful herself so she cursed Brahma and decree that he would not be worshipped anywhere besides Pushkar. But because of the yagna which Brahma performed with his second wife Gayatri in the presence of all the other Gods, Pushkar Lake did become holy, and a dip in the lake is said to absolve you of all your sins. Too bad it didn't work for Brahma.

I was very excited on our way to Pushkar to see and perhaps take a dip in this Holy Lake. Since I haven't pissed off any God/Husbands so far, I figured I was in the clear as far getting some good old fashion sin absolution. Absolution is that the right word? Anyway, we were on the bus when Lucy happened to mention, off-hand, that the Lake is all dried up because they've had really lousy monsoons the last few years. Well, Justin and I were incensed. I mean that was the whole reason to go there right? I suppose that is what you get for wanting to visit a man made lake in the middle of the desert almost exactly six months after or before the monsoon. O well, maybe next time, guess I'll have to hang on to those sins a while longer.

Despite the absence of the Lake, Pushkar was amazingly beautiful. It is surrounded by mountains, and actually reminded me a bit of the southern tip in the interior of British Columbia. Because Pushkar and its suburb are also a bit of an irrigated desert valley. Of course the Indians are not so outrageous as to base all of their agriculture in such a ridiculous location but there was some farming happening, which did look strange when compared to the surrounding beige environment.

I didn't actually think much of the Brahma Temple but I loved the hike I did with Lucy one morning at dawn to the Savitri Temple. Both of Brahma's wives have mountain top Temples that look down on the city of Pushkar and the Brahma Temple, but Savitri's is much higher and more imposing than Gayatri's, obvs. In fact Savitri's Temple is more impressive and imposing than all of the other Pushkar Temple's. She was not the one to mess with.

What I loved best about Pushkar was how relaxed it was. We met a Danish guy, Emil on the bus and the four of us formed a little traveling family. We stayed together at the Bharatpur Palace overlooking the "lake" and we did practically nothing but stroll around town everyday and eat at the Honey and Spice cafe, which was this amazing organic vegetarian restaurant that had incredible food. (Some of the best in India so far.) We also spent a few evening at the Hotel Seventh Heaven which had a beautiful restaurant.

It was there that Lucy, Emil and I arranged for Justin's surprise birthday party complete with the most disgusting cake I have ever had. Despite how gross it was it was a really fun night and Justin was genuinely surprised and touched by all the attention we lavished on him. (It was mostly Lucy and Emil, I give Justin plenty of attention the other 364 days of the year.) We had all been making this running joke about getting Justin laid for his birthday and I suggested that we should have a t-shirt made that said Gay and Away, which might help attract some potential mates. We all got a good laugh about that one. And then Emil, bless his little Danish heart, he hadn't quite gotten the joke but he went ahead and had a very cute t-shirt made, and it says wait for it... Gay In a Way. I just about died when I saw it. I love, when I travel, finding t-shirts in English that make little or no sense and Emil has unwittingly added to the collection.

While in town Justin and I also commissioned a tailor to make us some custom yoga mat bags and Lucy had an awesome sleeping bag made. I found Pushkar really charming and liveable but after a week it was starting to get a little bit boring so we were glad to move on, although we were sad to leave our new friends. Justin and I had an overnight bus to Agra and the Taj finally. I couldn't wait to see one of the most iconic sights in all of India!

highlights of Pushkar
no lake - it actually was really funny
honey and spice -seriously delicious
our travel family - Emil, Lucy, Justin and me
hiking to the Savitri Temple with Lucy - we had quite an intense experience with some villagers at the Temple and they bought us a chai tea at the bottom. It was really special.
Justin's birthday surprise party at Seventh Heaven.
Dr. Sanjay Gupta - not to be confused with the CNN medical corespondent and yes we did have to see another doctor. At this point it feels like a tradition

Lowlights of Pushkar

No lake - it might have been funny, but I've got some serious sins that I would not have minded being absolved of.

Having to go to the doctor - Justin got quite sick and was even vomiting the day before his birthday. But Dr. G got it sorted and he was feeling much better.