We had a very leisurely departure from Varkala. Although we did get ripped off by the Tuk Tuk driver who took us to the train station. We knew it too, but since we had a train to catch we didn't really have much choice in the matter. He did drive around in circles for a while though, which was great. (read not so great.) I am guessing he was thinking the longer he took the more we would assume it was worth it.
We had originally planned to spend the next week town hopping our way to Gokarna, and we were going to skip Goa altogether. But, we have met quite a few other tourists since arriving in India and lots of them were going to be in different parts of Goa so we decided we'd like to meet up with them. We also decided that town hopping for a week was going to be too much hassle and not all that worth it. So instead we decided to spend the week split between two places before taking the train straight to Goa. It also made getting to Mumbai by the 31st much easier. We have a flight from Mumbai to Udapur on the 31st so we have to get there by then and we were starting to panic about how we were going to do so. Mumbai is roughly 750 kms from where we are now in Goa, and we wanted to be sure we knew how we were going to travel there.
After our unsolicited tour of Varkala town we arrived at the train station. It was only a half hours journey to Kollum where we were going to be spending the next two nights so we hadn't bothered to reserve seats. That meant that we had to know exactly which compartments of the train we were allowed to sit in and where we should wait on the platform. Of course we were not in the right place and when the train pulled in we literally had to sprint forward to attempt to board. After watching hopelessly for a few moments we realized that there was no way we were going to be able to squeeze onto the unreserved cars with our packs, and I was beginning to panic. But Justin did some very quick thinking and arranged with one of the conductors for us to stand between cars for the half hours ride to Kolllum. I was both grateful and not so grateful. Getting on the train was a relief, and exciting as it was my first Indian train trip, but riding between cars, near the toilets was really unpleasant. Thank goodness it was only half an hour.
After arriving in Kollum we had no trouble getting a ride to our hotel, which we had pre-arranged at one of the travel agencies of Varkala. It was nice enough and there was a TV, which made Justin happy, since the Golden Globes were happening while we were in town and he was excited to get the results. But the hotel was a bit out in the middle of nowhere and wasn't anything special. They did have amazing chai tea though.
Kollum is what I would call a living city/town. Meaning there isn't anything to see there really. No temples, or beautiful beaches or even much of a market. In fact there weren't even many other tourists that we could see. And so we were gawked at everywhere we went. We did see an interesting spice market on our walk back to the hotel one night though. The only reason to go to Kollum is because it is the gateway to the backwaters. All throughout Kerala, and even in parts if Goa and Karnataka, along the western coast, there are a number of intricate waterways and villages that subsist along a maze of smaller and larger canals. We took a canoe tour of some of these communities while in town. It was wonderful to float down the canal in a locally made wooden canoe, held together by coconut fibers. All the while our guide/gondolier pointed out different spice trees, fruit tress even tapioca trees. We also saw some interesting wildlife, including a rather sad looking elephant chained to a stump. I must say that when I look at an elephant I don't really think pet, but what do I know.
Highlights of Kollum
TV- I know it is shameful, but after a few weeks without we were grateful to get the news, and to be able to spend the evening lazing about watching movies
Backwater tour - beautiful, peaceful and interesting
Lowlights of Kollum
diner at the Hotel Nani - we waited forever, and all the Indians who'd arrive after us got served first. What gives?
Princess Jasmine and Aladdin - The Indian couple who we went on the backwater tour with. They sat right in front of us on the boat and proceeded to fawn all over each other and were very loud.
No street lamps - walking home one night I accidentally stepped in a swampy pile of i don't want to know what. And my entire foot was covered in brown sewage. Yucky
We stayed two nights in Kollum before catching a water ferry which was going to take us to Aleppey, further north. Although the water ferry was an eight hour journey on an uncomfortable fiberglass seat, it was a new and beautiful way to travel, complete with a stop at a local restaurant for lunch and chai tea. We also met some other travelers on board and had a run in with a very disgruntled European women from country x. Right as we were boarding we found some seats inside and sat down without too much thought. But then a rather disgruntled woman behind us, rudely implored us to keep moving to the back. Her tone was so unnecessary that it produced a laugh from both Justin and I, and the gentlemen sitting to my left. I turned around and said, "Hey, no problem, just relax alright," in a rather listen crazy tone of voice. After we had moved to a different section of the boat I heard the Brit who'd been sitting to my left ask her if she was alright. To which she replied, " NO. I am NOT alright." Whoa, glad I am not traveling with her. Shessh. Justin, Kieran (the Brit) and I proceeded to make fun of her the rest of the boat ride. And she was miserable the whole way, even her boyfriend who was traveling with her, who must have been a solid foot taller and much bigger than her seemed to cower if fear of her. We also met a Scottish couple who had cycled there way to India from Holland. Can you believe that? Riding a bike over 7,000 Kilometers. And they were hoping to make it all the way to Beijing. They might actually get there at the same time as us! I asked them what they had done to prepare for such an undertaking and they laughed and said, "nothing, we started in Holland." I guess that would be the best place to start. They were both so good natured and down to earth and I really admired them, their courage and gumption.
We were supposed to be met in Aleppey by a gentlemen named Mr. Baby, but he was nowhere to be found when we got off the boat. And we were hassled by so many touts and rickshaw drivers that we grew weary of waiting and eventually agreed to be driven to one of the hotels that was being offered to us, by an unusually soft spoken rickshaw driver. It didn't hurt that the place he wanted to take us, Gowri Guest House was listed in the India bible. (read Lonely Planet guide book.) We weren't very impressed initially, since they showed us the dodgiest room first and wanted 500 Rs for it a night. I told them that the room was definitely not worth 500Rs and did they have anything else to show us. "Well." he says " we have the huts at the back but they are 750Rs." To which I replied,
" Don't bother we wont spend 750 Rs."
"Oh wait, there is one hut that is 500Rs."
"O really" says I, "Well that is very fortunate for us isn't it." It was then that one of the young guys asked one of the most often heard questions in India, "Where from?" Now I was tired at this point and thought that although everyone asks you all the time where you are from, that this was a particularly odd time to ask, since we were in the middle of haggling over the price for the room. And so I responded tersely, "does it affect the price?"
"Hey hey, what's wrong." he says, "you don't like friendly people?"
I thought to myself shit, that was a bit bitchy and so I said, "No no, of course I like friendly people. We are from Canada."
After they had shown us the hut, at the back of the property. A beautiful room, surrounded by gardens full of hammocks and very quiet. The same guy was chatting with Justin when it was revealed that I am in fact an American.
"I can tell." he said good naturedly. I laughed and we agreed to stay for one night. The Gowri Guest House, turned out to be amazing. Not only was our friend Kieran also staying there, by chance, but the staff of young Indians were fun and cute and the place turned out to be the best place we have stayed so far. I of course now had a reputation and all of the guys were constantly chiding me and calling me the "Canadian" girl, while patting my head and bringing me flowers.
We had planned to move on the next day to Fort Cochin, but decided instead to stay in Aleppey an extra night and go directly to Erankulum where we were to catch our train to Goa late Thursday night. We didn't actually do much in Aleppey. Most people who go there only go to rent houseboats. But we loved the Gowri, with its friendly staff and live music every night, complete with covers of Neil Young and the Beatles. The owner also has a penchant for exotic animals, especially Australian ones. And there was quite a zoo there, with rabbits, chickens, and exotic birds. There was even an Emu. How on earth they got an Emu I will never know, but they had one. We met a really nice Australian guy, Elan, who told us that the owner really wants a kangaroo.
Highlights of Aleppey
The Gowri - best guest house in India
Meeting Kieran - best Brit in India
Lowlights of Aleppey
having to leave the Gowri
mosquito - I am convinced I am going to get Malaria on this trip. Although i probably wont get it till were in some really isolated part of Laos, and I will have to be airvacted to Thailand.
Before we knew it it was time to hit the road again. We were actually excited because we found out that we could see Avatar in Erankulum in 3d and Justin and I were both excited to go to see a movie in India. We were talking about it so much that Kieran decided he would come along with us for the experience. And what an experience it was. If you ever come to India and have the opportunity to go see a movie, do it. First of all when we showed up, an hour early I might add, the crowd outside the movie theatre was enormous. We were totally confused about what was going on, so being a woman I was allowed to go into the theatre and find out. I went into the concession office, which was the only place where there we any attendants to find out what the process was to get tickets. I think the guy felt bad for me, since I obviously didn't have a clue, and I was the only whitie there. It turns out that going to the movies in India is a lot like riding on the train. There are classes of tickets, although the seats aren't really any different. If you want reserved seating in the balcony, you can buy your tickets at the concession desk in advance. Those tickets cost 150Rs, roughly $3.00. If you want unreserved seats, a mere 10Rs, you have to wait until 15 minutes before the movie and when they open the gate there is a stampede of mostly young men who race up to the ticket desk. It was quite a spectacle. We opted for the pricier but far less hectic option of reserved seats in the balcony. Then when the movie started the entire theatre erupted in cheers and applause and shouts for the protectionist to turn up the volume. They were so loud that we missed the first five minutes of the movie. Then throughout the film when ever something exciting or visually interesting happened the theatre would erupt again. It was amazing. And the movie wasn't half bad either.
Afterward Justin and I still had time to kill before our train so the three of us went for dinner at a nearby restaurant. Dinner was excellent, but we were all a bit disappointed that we couldn't have beer at the restaurant with our meal. So afterward we went to a bar nearby. This bar, was so disgusting I felt nauseous upon entering. It smelled absolutely foul, and the lighting was so dark and dingy. The whole atmosphere made you feel like you were doing something really bad. I was also the only woman there, as has been a theme in India. In fact none of the bars we have been to have even had a toilet for women. But we decided to stay and have a drink. Thankfully the bar was closing at 10:30 and so we couldn't stay any longer. It was also about time for Justin and I to head to the train station so we said goodbye to Kieran and hopped in a rickshaw. We were on our way to the train station for our first overnight train trip. And we were both excited.
Highlights of Erankulum
The bus ride in - Kieran had an absolutely hilarious conversation with the conductor about the cultural differences in India and the West regarding marriage. The conductor was startled to learn that couples often live together before getting married, and that sometimes they don't even get married at all!
Avatar - The movie, the experience I will never forget it
Lowlights of Erankulum
The bar - truly frightening.
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